Beguiling, oblique, rebellious. The allure of Palermo flows from a strong cocktail of Liberty architecture, medieval markets, Sicilian carts and Byzantine mosaics, served with a dash of lemon and bright green pistachios.

In 33 sights, Walking through Palermo provides an overture to this most intricate of cultural capitals, where palm trees soar against Arab-Norman cathedrals and the severest churches have the plainest doors.